If your sunroof is stuck open, the fuse is one of the first things to check because it can cut power to the roof motor and leave the glass partway open. That is why car sunroof stuck open fuse location by model matters. The fuse location changes by make, year, and trim, so the right answer for a Honda may be wrong for a Ford or BMW. A quick fuse check can save time, help you close the roof before rain gets in, and tell you if the problem is electrical or deeper in the motor, switch, or track.

Most vehicles use one of three fuse box areas for the sunroof circuit: the interior dash fuse panel, the under-hood fuse box, or a rear cargo or trunk fuse panel. Some models also share sunroof power with the body control module, retained accessory power, or power windows. That is why a blown fuse may affect more than the roof alone.

What does car sunroof stuck open fuse location by model actually mean?

It means finding the exact fuse that powers the sunroof on your specific vehicle. Readers usually search this when the roof will not close, the switch stopped responding, or the sunroof worked earlier and then suddenly died. In many cars, the fuse diagram uses labels like moonroof, sunroof, sliding roof, roof, PWR WDO, or a general body electronics label instead of the word sunroof.

This search also matters because fuse numbers change across model years. A 2014 Toyota Camry may use a different fuse slot than a 2018 Camry. Even within one year, trim packages with panoramic roofs can use a separate circuit from standard tilt-and-slide roofs.

Where is the sunroof fuse usually located?

On many cars, the sunroof fuse is in the cabin fuse panel on the driver side dash, behind a kick panel, or under the steering column. On others, it is in the engine bay fuse box near the battery. Luxury brands sometimes place comfort-system fuses in the trunk or rear seat area.

  • Driver side dashboard side cover
  • Fuse panel under the steering wheel
  • Passenger footwell side panel
  • Under-hood fuse and relay box
  • Rear cargo area fuse panel
  • Trunk side trim panel

If the panel cover has no clear label, check the owner’s manual or the fuse map printed inside the cover. If you are sorting out the basics first, this page on finding the roof fuse and trying a reset can help narrow it down.

Which fuse label should you look for?

The exact label is often less obvious than people expect. Manufacturers use different names for the same circuit. Look for any of these terms on the fuse chart:

  • Sunroof
  • Moonroof
  • Sliding roof
  • Roof panel
  • Power roof
  • PWR WDO or power windows if the roof shares the circuit
  • BCM, ACC, or retained accessory power in some cars

If your roof and windows both stopped working, the issue may be a shared fuse or relay instead of the sunroof fuse alone. That can make the fault look bigger than it is.

Fuse location by model: where owners commonly find it

The list below covers common locations owners check first. It is not a substitute for the manual, because fuse numbers and names can change by year and engine package, but it gives you a realistic starting point.

Honda and Acura

Many Honda and Acura models place the moonroof fuse in the interior fuse box under the driver side dash. Some also use an under-hood fuse for accessory power. Labels may say moonroof or tie into the MICU or body control system.

Toyota and Lexus

Common locations include the driver side lower dash fuse panel and the engine bay fuse box. Toyota often uses the term moon roof or links it with power window circuits. Lexus models may add another electronics-related fuse in the cabin panel.

Ford and Lincoln

Ford often places the sunroof fuse in the passenger compartment fuse box, sometimes under the glove box or behind a trim panel. Some models route roof power through accessory delay circuits, so a retained power fuse can matter too.

Chevrolet, GMC, Buick, and Cadillac

GM vehicles may use the left side dash fuse panel, under-hood block, or rear seat fuse center depending on the platform. Labels can mention sunroof, roof panel, or body control. Panoramic systems may have separate modules.

Nissan and Infiniti

Many Nissan models keep the sunroof fuse in the interior fuse box near the driver kick panel. Infiniti models sometimes split power between cabin and engine-bay fuse boxes. Check for labels like sun roof or room lamp related body circuits if the chart is vague.

Hyundai and Kia

These often use the interior fuse panel at the driver side lower dash. Some panoramic roof systems have a dedicated module fuse in addition to the main roof fuse. If the sunshade also stopped, that is a clue the main roof circuit may be dead.

BMW

BMW fuse layouts vary a lot. Depending on model, the fuse panel may be behind the glove box, in the trunk, or under the cargo floor. The sunroof can be listed under body electronics, roof function center, or comfort module rather than a plain sunroof name.

Mercedes-Benz

Mercedes models may place the fuse in the dash side panel, trunk fuse box, or front SAM-related fuse area. Panoramic roofs can involve multiple fuses and control units, so one blown fuse is not always the whole story.

Volkswagen and Audi

VW and Audi commonly use a side dashboard fuse panel or engine-bay box, depending on the model. Labels may refer to sliding roof, convenience system, or onboard supply control module.

How do you tell if the fuse is really the problem?

A blown fuse usually causes sudden total loss of roof movement. You press the switch and get nothing. No motor sound. No click. No brief movement. If the roof tries to move, tilts unevenly, or makes grinding sounds, the fuse may be fine and the problem may be the motor, regulator, cables, or tracks.

That difference matters. If you hear the motor but the roof will not close, a mechanical fault is more likely. If you are comparing those symptoms, this article on how to tell a motor problem from a fuse issue is useful.

  • Likely fuse issue: no movement at all, no sound, roof stopped suddenly
  • Likely motor or track issue: clicking, humming, partial movement, crooked closing, binding
  • Possible switch or module issue: intermittent operation, works after restart, only one function fails

What is the safest way to check the sunroof fuse?

  1. Turn the car off and remove the key.
  2. Find the correct fuse panel from the owner’s manual or panel map.
  3. Locate the fuse labeled for sunroof, moonroof, or a shared accessory circuit.
  4. Pull the fuse with a fuse puller or plastic tool.
  5. Inspect the metal strip inside. If it is broken or burnt, the fuse is blown.
  6. Replace it with the same amperage rating only.
  7. Test the sunroof again.

If the replacement fuse blows right away, stop there. That usually points to a short circuit, water intrusion, damaged wiring, or a failing motor drawing too much current.

Can you close a stuck-open sunroof if the fuse is good?

Yes, sometimes. Many vehicles have a manual closing method using an Allen key or emergency crank point near the motor, often hidden behind the overhead console or dome light area. Some require removing a small trim plug. The exact method depends on the model, so use the owner’s manual if possible.

If the fuse is good but the roof is still open, you may also try a reset. Some sunroofs relearn their stop positions after battery loss or interrupted travel. That often involves holding the tilt or close switch for several seconds. The steps vary by brand, so avoid random button pressing if the roof is already jammed.

What mistakes cause people to miss the right fuse?

  • Checking only the under-hood fuse box and ignoring the interior panel
  • Looking only for the word sunroof when the chart says moonroof or sliding roof
  • Using the wrong model year fuse diagram
  • Replacing a fuse with a higher amp rating
  • Assuming the fuse is fine without removing and inspecting it
  • Missing a shared power-window or accessory fuse

Another common mistake is focusing on the roof alone when other electrical symptoms are present. If you also have odd stalling, warning lights, or sensor issues, the fault may not be isolated to the roof. In that case, this page about sunroof electrical failure showing up with other engine-related symptoms may help you think through a wider electrical problem.

When should you stop and get repair help?

Get help if the new fuse blows again, the headliner area smells burnt, the roof is jammed at an angle, or water has leaked into the overhead switch or module. Panoramic roofs and luxury models often use more than one control unit, and forcing the roof shut can crack the glass or bend the tracks.

It is also smart to stop if you find corrosion in the fuse box or signs of water near the A-pillars or overhead console. Water intrusion can create repeat fuse failures and module damage that will not be fixed by another fuse.

Where can you verify the exact fuse map?

The best source is the owner’s manual for your exact year and trim. A dealer parts or service department can also confirm the fuse number from the VIN. For general fuse box references, some owners also cross-check reliable manual databases and manufacturer service information. If you want a neutral source for vehicle manuals, Manualslib is one place people use to look up panel diagrams, though the official owner’s manual is still the better choice when available.

Quick checklist before you start

  • Confirm your exact year, make, model, and trim
  • Check all likely fuse panel locations: dash, under hood, rear cargo, trunk
  • Look for labels like moonroof, sliding roof, roof, power windows, BCM, or ACC
  • Remove and inspect the fuse instead of guessing by sight alone
  • Replace only with the same amp rating
  • If the fuse blows again, stop and look for wiring, motor, or water damage
  • If the fuse is good, try the manual close method or the model-specific reset procedure

Your next best step is simple: find the owner’s manual fuse chart for your exact model, check the correct fuse panel, and test the roof before buying parts. That one step usually tells you if you are dealing with a basic blown fuse or a larger sunroof electrical problem.